How to Choose the Right Sunscreen For Your Skin

As the writer and psychiatrist David Hawkins has said, just because there are clouds, it doesn’t mean the sun stops shining. He was being metaphorical, but when dermatologists say it, they are not! This is why most experts recommend that, no matter the weather or the season, we should wear sunscreen if we're going to be spending meaningful time outside.

This is especially important when you’re outdoors for long periods near water, snow, and sand, as these surfaces reflect the sun’s rays and significantly increase the risk of sunburn. This reflection effect is well-documented in dermatological research, notes Dr. Panta Rouhani Schaffer, a board certified dermatologist and Atria medical dermatology partner whose research has explored ethnic disparities in cancer and the medical applications of laser technologies, particularly in treating post-combat veterans.

Experts agree that while we all have our unique biology and risks, sunscreen is hands down the most important skincare step because it protects against both skin cancer and the premature aging of skin. Dr. Schaffer helped us break down what to think about when selecting protection.

Here are the three main factors in a great sunscreen:

• Broad-spectrum protection: This means the sunscreen protects against both UVA rays (aging rays) and UVB (burning rays).
• SPF of 30 or higher—in one swoop: This should all come from one product, not a moisturizer and sunscreen that are each SPF 15, for example. While higher is generally better, there is little extra benefit after SPF 60, according to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration.
• Water resistance: No sunscreen is waterproof, but products labeled “water resistant” will protect you for 40 minutes in the water and “very water resistant” should protect you for about 80 minutes. You still need to re-apply every two hours and after swimming.

What is broad-spectrum protection?

Sunlight includes UVA and UVB rays. Both can cause skin cancer, but UVB rays mostly affect the epidermis, or top layer of skin and typically cause sunburns. UVA rays penetrate deeper into your skin and cause aging, driving changes like the loss of collagen and volume in the skin, shifts in skin texture, and the loss of elasticity.

What’s the difference between physical and chemical sunscreen?

Physical sunscreens, also called mineral sunscreens, typically contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. These literally reflect and scatter the sun’s UV rays in addition to absorbing UV light. Dermatologists often recommend physical sunscreens for people with sensitive skin, though they can sometimes leave a white cast.

Chemical sunscreens absorb the sun’s UV rays, convert them into heat, and release them into the atmosphere. This accounts for most sunscreen in the U.S. market. Some people avoid these because they don’t like the idea of putting chemicals on their skin every day, and others might steer clear because ingredients like oxybenzone and octinoxate—two common chemical filters in the U.S.—have been linked to coral bleaching and are not “reef safe.”

The difference between sunscreen in the United States and Europe

Sunscreen options in the United States pale in comparison to much of the rest of the world. The U.S. is limited by a 1938 law that requires the Food and Drug Administration to regulate sunscreens as over-the-counter drugs rather than cosmetics. In Europe, Australia, and most of Asia, sunscreen is treated as a cosmetic, which has allowed companies to get approval for a wider variety of safe ingredients.

To date, European regulators have approved 34 protective ingredients while the U.S. has approved just 16. (It is worth noting that some of these ingredients confer more protection against UVA rays, suggesting that “broad-spectrum” European products are better than those in the U.S. at protecting against those harmful rays.)

Dr. Schaffer notes that all this doesn’t mean the FDA has decided the international ingredients are not safe for Americans—it just means they haven’t yet been reviewed. “We’re slow to study these newer filters in the U.S.,” Dr. Schaffer says. “That leaves it up to the consumer to make an informed choice.”

Dr. Schaffer’s recommendations

So which sunscreens should you actually be using? While Dr. Schaffer says you’ll want to find a product that reacts well with your individual skin, here are some of her favorites:

In the U.S.:

Mineral:

• ISDN Eryfotona Actinica (mineral + DNA repair enzymes)
• Fig.1 Mineral Sunscreen (mineral + DNA repair enzymes)
• Neutrogena Sheer Zinc Dry Touch (reef-safe)
• Sunforgettable Brush-On
• Blue Lizard Sensitive Mineral Sunscreen Spray
• Blue Lizard Sensitive Mineral Sunscreen with Zinc Oxide

Chemical:

• Supergoop Unseen Sunscreen
• La Roche Posay Anthelios Daily Invisible Sunscreen

Combination:

• Elta MD UV Sheer Broad-Spectrum Full-Body
• Elta MD UV Daily Broad-Spectrum
• Elta MD UV Lip Balm

And if you happen to be in Europe and want to stock up, she recommends the following brands:

• La Roche Posay UVMune 400 (different filters than in the U.S.)
• Avene
• L’Oreal

Vitamin D

Your skin produces vitamin D when exposed to the sun. Dr. Schaffer says this is not a reason to avoid sunscreen. Foods and beverages rich in vitamin D can help, and if you are concerned about your vitamin D levels, your doctor can help determine whether a supplement is appropriate. See more about this in our guide to vitamin D!

Ultimately, it’s important to find a sunscreen that you like. “The best sunscreen is going to be the one you use every day,” Dr. Schaffer says. And remember: Sunscreen needs to be applied every two hours to be effective, and the American Academy of Dermatology recommends using 1 ounce—about the amount of a full shot glass—to safely cover your skin not covered by clothing. So choosing a product that you feel comfortable with will help make this a lasting habit.

This article is part of Atria’s Future of Health newsletter. Subscribe here.